Just take a second to throw your peepers over this. It's J.Bay at 8'+. A challenging wave to surf well at the best of times, let alone on a seriously solid day... with no fins! The daring bounder we have here, taking a very neat looking high-line, is Derek Hynd. The same Derek Hynd who got boinged by his board back in the eighties, piercing his eye (robbing him of his eyesight) and munching his cheekbone. So, an ageing-one-eyed-80's legend it is then, but, I think it's fair to say that he pretty much rules.
Don't agree? Next time you're out, you try surfing with one eye shut and see how you get on – Derek here's doing it with no fins, on a doozey!
Here's a bit more nosh for your lamps, but somehow, the shot above does it for me.
All well n' good but just it's a step up from drop knee on a bit of toast.
ReplyDeleteInteresting viewpoint. Still requires a barrow load o' skill – and balls too in the big stuff. But now that you've said it, I do know what you mean.
ReplyDeleteHa! I take it from your URL that you have a beef with bodyboarders Steve?
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