The BEST thing about it though, was that it was just like a real session, and by that I mean that I'd catch a wave, get a full-on dry, glassy barrel, then paddle back out, catch another, surf that in equally super-accurate detail, paddle back out... and so it went on, for what seemed like two and a half hours! I was shattered when I woke up, completely pooped, but stoked, soooo stoked. I'm in a really good mood today, all because of that, simple transcendental experience. It was SO good that I'm afraid my next surf will be so anti-climactic that I'll just give up surfing on the spot (I won't).
It was most surreal. Every wave was exactly the same. I mean an absolute carbon-copy. And on every wave I'd do the exact same thing:
paddle > late drop under the lip > quick barrel > top turn > stay high > REALLY gun-it down the line > backdoor barrel (super deep/unusually-long) > roundhouse cutback > gun-it > end with a 'simple' frontside air (with grab) > paddle back out > Repeat x20
Erm, yeah, but like I said, it WAS a dream. And if I could somehow have a dream like that every night, I'm pretty sure I'd be addicted to Night-Nurse by now!
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PS: You'd think it would be the barrels, but the best part was the 'REALLY gun-it down the line' bit, it just felt so ridiculously fast. Here's the noise that I like to think it made. Imagine you're stood on the reef watching, and this is what you hear as I go from simple post-turn high-line to full-on-turbo-nutter-bastard mode. Crank up the volume yo!
wet dream haha
ReplyDeleteHa! Yeah, you could say that! I'm still buzzing now, 12 hours later!
ReplyDelete